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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.